Khau Vai Love Market is one of the most famous and unique markets in Ha Giang. It is organized once a year, on 26th and 27th of the third lunar month. Unlike other love markets, Khau Vai Market is a meeting place of ex-lovers. It attracts many locals from various hill tribes like Nung, Tay, San Chi, Lo Lo, Dzao and Giay. On that day, they put on their best traditional costumes and go to the market where they are free to meet their past partners to share the emotions. Husbands and wives arrive at the market together before they both look for their ex-lovers among the crowd. This meeting at the market is just a temporary moment and does not influence their daily lives and their relationship.
Located at Khau Vai Commune, Meo Vac District, the market is about 170km from Ha Giang City. Here tourists will have a great chance to enjoy some traditional games and exciting activities, explore Meo Vac night market and try some local specialties. Besides, ethnic costumes, jewelry and ethnic musical instruments are on display at the market and you can buy some as souvenirs.
The story behind the Khau Vai Love Market
In the market area there are two temples called Ong and Ba (sir and madam). There are various stories and legends that explain the origins of this love market.
A story tells that there was once a boy and a girl in two different places in Ha Gaing who love each other very much. Because their families prevented their marriage, they came together to Khau Vai, a prosperous country with rich plants that they could live on.
Another story is similar, but has a less successful ending. Khau Vai was the place where two loved ones saw each other for the last time because their families did not want them to marry each other. However, they made plans to meet once a year on that day.
That is why all couples who have broken off relationships have the opportunity to meet in Khau Vai Love Market to express their feelings again. With the help of the local government and the Khau Vai commune, this traditional love market of Khau Vai is held instant to promote the cultural identity of ethnic minority groups.
Khau Vai Love Market becomes National Intangible Cultural Heritage
The Social Practices and Beliefs of Phong Luu Khau Vai Market, or Khau Vai Love Market, in Khau Vai Commune, Meo Vac District, Ha Giang Province has become a new National Intangible Cultural Heritage of Vietnam, according to a decision of the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.
How to get there
From Hanoi you first have to travel to Ha Giang City either by bus at night or mini bus during the day time. The trip takes around 6 to hours before arriving in Ha Giang City. From here it is still another 140 km through mountainous landscape with winding roads which can take another 6 hours. You either have to go by private car with driver or on the back of a motorbike. You can also go by motorbike yourself, but keep in mind that the roads in Ha Giang are far from safe and driving without a Vietnamese drivers licence is illegal.
Because the trip to Khau Vai takes so long, it is best to combine it with a visit to some of the other highlights of Ha Giang. Close to Meo Vac you find one of the most stunning mountain passes in Vietnam, namely the Ma Pi Leng Pass. On the other side of the pass you enter Dong Van with it’s Old Quarter. From here you can drive to the most norther part of Vietnam, the Lung Cu flag tower. On the way to this area you will drive to some of the most scenic mountain landscapes of Ha Giang. From here you can go south visiting the Hmong Palace and the beautiful Sung La valley.
Activities in Khau Vai Love Market Festival
The first day of the market session is for the ceremony to turn into the new calendar period. On this day, at a selected hour, people take a bath and put on their best clothes in anticipation of the New Year. They bring incense, lamps, flowers, and fruits to a pagoda where they join the great calendar-receiving ceremony.
Then the official ceremony is carried out inside the sanctuary. After that, every participant prays to Buddha and chant prayers for a happy new year. Young people walk out to the pagoda yard and join fun activities till late at night.
The second day is for the ceremony to offer boiled rice and heap up a sandy mountain. Every Khmer family cooks rice and offers it to Buddhist monks at the pagoda in the early morning and at noon.
In the afternoon, people start to heap up a sandy mountain for seeking happiness and luck. They make small mountains in eight directions and one in the middle reflects the universe. This custom originates from an age-old legend. It displays people’s aspirations for rain.
On the third day of the market, there comes the ceremony to wash the Buddha’s statue and Buddhist monks. In the afternoon, they burn incense, offer sacrifices and use scented water to wash the statue in order to pay tribute and gratitude to the Buddha. This is also to get rid of the old year’s misfortunes and wish all the best for the New Year.
After that, people return to their house and wash the Buddha’s statue at home. They offer dishes, confectionery and fruits to ask for happiness for their parents and grandparents and being forgiven for their mistakes made in the previous year.
What to Eat
When coming to Khai Vai Market Festival in Ha Giang, you will have a chance to enjoy a number of delicious food such as Au tau porridge, grilled alga, steamed egg rolls, buckwheat cake, carried-under-arm pork and so on. You can easily find these kinds of cuisine in any food stalls here.
Dates of the Khau Vai Love Market
Upcoming
- 2022: April 27
- 2023: May 16
- 2024: May 5
- 2025: April 24
Where to Stay
Ha Giang province owns a wide range of different hotels, motels or homestays for tourists to stay. Here are some suggestions for you.
Tip !
Combine a trip to the love market with our Ha Giang loop tour and choose either to go on the back of a motorbike or by private car. You will visit all of the above highlights and even more !
